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Steve casting in the Big Hole

The Fishaus River Report

The Bitterroot River in Southwestern Montana is characterized by pristine waters and fine fishing. From its tributaries in the East and West Forks to its finale at the Clark Fork you can find a myriad of fishing opportunities including Rainbows, Cutthroats, Browns, Bull Trout and Brookies. West slope Cutthroats abound here due in part to the catch and release regulation for this species. This species is native to Montana rivers and has been on the increase in the Bitterroot. Biologists are not able to explain why this fish population is rising here while the rest of the state is experiencing declining populations. Many of the tributaries such as Skalkaho, Tin Cup Creek and Sleeping Child have good populations of catchable Cutthroat. Upper tributaries such as Blue Joint and Martin Creek are full of Brook Trout. They provide some excellent small creek fishing for lighter two and three weight rods. Bull Trout, another of the native fish in Montana, preferring pristine waters still inhabit the river. In the last three years I have caught several Bull Trout, not on purpose mind you, in several of the upper stretches. Regulations cite that it is illegal to fish directly for Bull Trout.

The Bitterroot in its seventy plus miles of meandering it is almost like two rivers. The upper stretches have a higher gradient and are characterized by runs and riffles. Most of the stone flies hatch here. The stone nymphs prefer oxygenated water and the upper runs provide this. The lower stretches of the river are much slower because of less gradient. You will find an occasional riffle and run but mostly longer and deeper pools. Here you find larger hatches of mayflies.

Many consider the Bitterroot a sleeper simply by the low numbers of fishermen who come here compared to other rivers in Montana. Many discover the Bitterroot because they were just passing through and stopped to wet a fly. Once the river is fished most find it to their liking and return year after year. This is how I discovered it. A couple of my fly fishing friends invited me along on a weeks trip. We spent the first day floating the Hannon Memorial to Wally Crawford section. It was a blustery day and we caught very few fish. The next day we floated the West Fork from Painted Rocks Dam to Applebury and we caught all five species of fish that I mentioned above. I was hooked.

There are twenty or more different combinations of stretches that can be floated and fished as well as waded on the Bitterroot. Stream access laws in Montana are very friendly to fishermen and there are plenty of available walk in sites providing miles and miles or river bank to fish. A copy of the access laws are available at any local Licensing Agency. The East and West Fork have all five species in them. There are high populations of Rainbows and Cutthroats as well as some Browns. Brookies are sometimes caught but are primarily found on the smaller tributaries feeding the forks. After the two forks come together one of the most popular stretches is from Hannon Memorial to Wally Crawford. The upper half of this stretch is mostly Cutthroats while the lower half has higher populations of Rainbows and Browns. The lower half is catch and release for all fish. One extremely popular way to float the river is a one person floating device such as the River Otter. These devices have been more increasing popular during the past five years. I find that the advantage to using the Otter is that I can fish all the time I am floating. With a raft one person is always on the oars and is unable to fish.

The Bitterroot is well known as one of the finest dry fly fishing rivers in the state. The dry fly fishing season begins sometime in March, depending on the weather, and ends in late November. Spring is always blessed with high water that lasts for two to three weeks in late May and early June. This time of year is always good for the trout because of the abundance of food available when rocks are washed along and nymphs uprooted. Once this is over the river returns to its meandering nature and settles in for the summer fun. The first major hatch is the Skwala (stonefly) in March. If the conditions are right the fish will key on the imitation pattern for a full 6 weeks. One pattern to use for the Skwala is a bullet head fly tied with a black egg sack and dark body. The underwing is dark brown or black and the overwing is tied in bullet head style with dark brown premo-deer hair. The fish seem to look for this hatch to begin their yearly feeding habits and with the size of this stonefly they can build bulk fast. The late fishing which continues into November includes patterns such as the October Caddis and Midges. The October Caddis are large and can be fished with an imitator that is size #8 or #10. The Midges on the other hand are from #20 - #24. In between the major hatches include Pale Morning Dun, Blue Winged Olive, Green Drake, Salmon Fly, Golden Stone and several varieties of Caddis. The mayflies are typically sizes 14 - 18 with the exception of the Green Drake which is size 10. The Salmon Flies should be fished with a size 6 or 8 and the Golden Stones are sizes 8 - 10.

The summer fishing is best described as a continual opportunity for dry fly action. With the abundance of mayfly hatches the expert as well as the novice fisherman can do well. If you are not capable of matching the hatch a well tied attractor pattern such as a stimulator will usually do the trick. There are opportunities for fishermen who prefer wading as well as those who prefer floating from a raft. Many access sites provide the wading fisherman ample stretches to spend a few hours or the entire day.

September and Labor Day mark an end to the heavy tourist season. With children going back to school and vacations over the river lulls to a slower pace. As October approaches the local Montana people begin to ready themselves for the winter. Many begin gathering wood that they will use to heat their homes during the next 6 months. Elk and Deer seasons begin later in the month and it is time to sight in that favorite rifle. After the third weekend in October you can count on having the river almost to yourself almost the entire day. The only local fishermen you will bump into are those like yourself who have chosen to spend their time fishing rather than hunting. Late fall fishing can be the golden opportunity that you have been waiting for.

Good Fishing!


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Bill Bean
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Hamilton, MT 59840
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